Rocca di Perti settore placca piotti parte destra
Foto archivio Marco (Thomas) Tomassini
This is definitely a crag for the winter months, due to the fact that it faces west. The cliff houses 15 routes between 15 and 30 meters long of mainly slabby character and with a difficulty from 6a to 7a.
Re-bolting of this sector was carried out in 1995 and was organized by the U.I.S.P. Mountain Association of Genoa of which Gino Pittaluga and Marco (Thomas) Tomassini have been the most active members.
Really, only two routes were consecutively re-bolted by Andrea Costaguta & C. in 1997 (routes no 7 and 14) and those were left in that state (visible by the mix of bolt hangers and resin).
Almost all routes are slabs with horizontal and vertical crimps and almost all routes have a single fingery move in the middle section.
Unfortunately this cliff has always been very popular and is hence partly polished but it remains a nice crag with good technical climbs in the middle to easy grades.
The crag was originally developed by various climbers in the years from 1974 to 1995.
The material for the re-bolting of the routes was provided by the U.I.S.P. Mountain Association of Genoa.
The route "Lavanda" was bolted from the bottom in the period from February to March 2006 by Simone Baglietto with help from Pier Carlo Franco, and it is therefore the only route in this sector equipped with "fisher" bolt hangers of presently good quality.
Access:
Exit the motorway at Finale Ligure, when you reach the stop sign turn left and drive downhill in direction Finale Ligure, Via Aurelia.
After 1.4 km turn left towards Finale Borgo, Calice Ligure, Perti, cross the little medieval bridge and follow the main road leftwards.
After 3.2 km turn left at a signpost "Palestra di Roccia Rocca di Perti" and follow this uphill road for 1.4 km. After 500 m cars can already be parked in a big open space on your right, the road however turns into a dirt road and continues on the left.
Continue until the road is blocked by a metal bar, at which point further parking spaces can be found. From there continues for another 3 min along this dirt road by foot.
You will see a small track on your left that leads in direction of the crag. Follow this for about 3 min until you reach another path at the base of the cliff.
Exactly at this point the first 4 routes of the sector can be found.
If you follow the path to the right you will notice a rocky ramp of about 10 m height immediately after the first small section of the cliff. By going up this ramp one reaches the base of the routes 5, 6 and 7.
After about another 10 m along the path a small track on your left leads you to the other routes of the sector.
To reach the routes no 8, 9, 10 and 11 it is again necessary to scramble up another short rocky ramp. At the base of the routes no 10 and 11 (routes "Tic Tac" and "Preistorici Messaggi") two bolts have been placed to clip into while belaying, as the ledge is quite small at this point.
The approach takes about 6 minutes on foot.
ATTENTION! Don't leave any valuables in the car, unfortunately in this zone cars are frequently broken into!
