arrampicare a finale ligure, scalare a finale ligure, marco tomassini, thomas bric scimarco

Defintely a winter crag due to the fact that it faces southeast. The cliff offers 18 routes 10 to 25 meters long, with a broad range of grades from 4b to 7a and a variety of different climbing styles.

There are slab routes with pockets of varying size, technical walls, dihedrals, cracks, arêtes and even a roof.

Initially there were only 5 routes (routes no 10,11,12,13,18), bolted by various unknown climbers and equipped with a mix of now rather old material, recently 13 new routes have been added and the pre-existing routes has obviously been re-bolted.

All routes are equipped with stainless steel resin bolts and the chains all have a fixed screw gate karabiner (even though the chain is shared by the routes no 2, 3 and 4, there are nevertheless 3 independent karabiners for the lower-off).

All works of bolting and re-bolting were carried out in the period 2002-2003.

All materials were paid for and all the work was carried out by Marco (Thomas) Tomassini; with the generous help of Luca Faitanini and Anna Taccagni.

Access:

From the motorway exit of Finale Ligure, drive up to the stop sign and turn left towards Finale Ligure, Via Aurelia.

Follow the road for 1,4 Km and take the junction to the left towards Finale Borgo, Calice Ligure, Perti, cross a small medieval bridge and follow the main road which bends to the left.

Continue along this road for 2 Km until you find on your right a junction signposted Perti Alto, Osteria Castel Gavone, Zona Monumentale Perti. Follow this small road uphill for about 1.3 km until you come to a small church square (S. Eusebio) and a restaurant (located above the road).

Water bottles can be filled up at the fountain, which provides drinking water and is located on the left side of the church.

Follow the road passing the church for another 1 km, cars can be parked on the left side of the road opposite various pink houses.

At this point you can already see the pointed rock faces and the red ledges of Bric Scimarco higher up on your right, slightly lower down on the right lies the sector Placca delle Case Valle und higher up further left Monte Sordo.

From here onwards continue on foot, turn left following a small road slightly downhill signposted "Contrada Valle", cross a little bridge and pass between the houses.

The footpath marked by three red dots passes the crag Case Valle and then splits into three separate paths.

The right hand path leads upwards to S. Antonino (climbing area with the same name), the straight path goes downhill to the sector Bric Scimarco Inferiore or continuing from there onwards to the sector Tre Frati, the left path leads upwards to Bric Scimarco Superiore and Antri Rossi.

Following the left hand path for a couple of minutes you will reach a junction of which the right fork leads to Bric Scimarco Superiore (or Centrale) and the left fork to the sector Antri Rossi.

The approach on foot takes about 20 minutes.

In the summer months the cliff only goes into shade after about 6pm.