Bric Spaventaggi settore Placca dei Maleducati
Foto di Guido Jafelice
More of a spring than winter climbing area even though the cliff is west facing. The area offers 45 routes of which 29 are new and include all types of angles. Grades vary from 4c to 7c with route lengths from 15 to 37 meters.
The main sector is simultaneously the biggest sector that houses the majority of the old re-bolted routes with new routes added in vicinity of the cave, situated on the extreme right part of the cliff. These routes generally require more strength and include short roof sections; other new routes have been put up in-between pre-existing old routes. Altogether routes's grades are from 6a to 7c. Other two sectors have been developed to the right of this sector, the first named "Pilier", is situated a little further to the right of the cave and contains 9 new routes with grades from 6b to 7b and a maximum length of 35 meters. The second sector, named "Petit Pilier" is located further on roughly 60 m to the right following the footpath and contains 7 new routes with grades from 5c to 7a and a maximum length of 16 meters. All of the routes have independent new chains with resin bolts connected in French style with a screw ring karabiner for the lower-off, alternatively they are equipped with two bolts and a chain.
The pre-existing re-bolted routes were originally equipped by various climbers in the years between 1980 and 1994. On some routes the chains were either lowered or put up higher by two to three meters for either security reasons or to reduce rope wear.
The route "Il falchetto picchietto e il mangiatore di mosche" originally started on the right of "Pippi" and crossed in the middle the routes "Deciso e Preciso" und "Cocoon" to follow a crack and to exit. The cleaning of the big ledge at the base of the last two routes, led to the bolting of a new separate start of the route, not only making the route more enjoyable but also more practical. It thus leads up directly between the routes "Cocoon" and "Maga Magł".
The routes "Aprile dolce dormire", "Maga magł" and "Materia grigia" originally shared the same chain but two more chains have been put up, giving each an independent lower-off. Very meticulous cleaning of holds (pockets, cracks, etc...) led to the rebirth of this nice cliff and leaves not just a little space for further enlargement.
All route names are written on the base of each route.
The work of bolting and re-bolting was carried out in the period from November 2005 - August 2006 by Marco (Thomas) Tomassini and Daniele (Jack) Canale.
Access:
From the motorway exit Feglino, turn right towards Finale L. und follow the road for 1,7 Km until you reach a turn off (on your left) ascends in direction of M. Cucco (sign restaurant La Sosta). Follow the road uphill for a further 400 meters until you arrive at a concrete ramp (on your right) here initiates private property. There is the possibility to park the car on the left side of the main road, continue on foot from here onwards. Follow the ramp, pass the house and the iron gate with the sign access forbidden ("vietato l'accesso"), continue straight on (1st junction). Shortly afterwards you will find another junction where you carry straight on following a level path (don't turn left into the uphill path) (2nd junction). At another junction shortly afterwards continue always straight on a level path (don't turn right) (3rd junction). Follow the path from here on until you pass several wooden planks at this point you take a slippery but short earth ramp. Once passed a short rocky outcrop equipped with a fixed rope you come to another junction where you turn right and walk along a small cliff (4th junction).
The last ramp on this rock face, again equipped with a fixed rope, leads you to the last junction where you take the right turn and which leads you directly to the foot of the first route of the Placca dei Maleducati (5th junction).
The total approach is about 10 minutes on foot.
ATTENTION: The motorway access and exit Feglino is one directional, it is only accessible if you are coming from or going to Genoa, so if you are approaching Finale from Ventimiglia you have to use the exit Finale Ligure.
