Monte Cucco settore Cucco 2
Foto di Luca Lenti
This until recently forgotten crag, visible also by the previously low number of routes, underwent some new development and the pre-existing 4 routes have been re-bolted and 9 new routes have been put up.
The original idea to give this crag another look came from Luca Lenti. The work was carried out by Marco (Thomas) Tomassini who also equipped and built the path up to the cliff.
The cliff faces in four different directions: northeast (route no 1), north (routes 2, 7, 8 and 9), west (routes 3-6) and northwest (routes 10-13). Looking at the exposure one could think that this is a summer climbing area but in reality it is best visited in spring and autumn.
The 13 routes are between 12 to 28 meters long with a range of grades from 6a to 8b.
The fact that this crag offers such a wide range of grades unfortunately means that for most climbers there are only very few routes on offer even if the approach is really short (5 minutes).
The climbing is generally on vertical walls with a more challenging section of varying length on the bulges usually towards the end of the routes.
Almost all of the shorter routes are characterised by a section of crack climbing.
The pre-existing routes were bolted in 1992 by J. Brutscher and S. Eisenbach (routes no 9 and 11), in 1986 by N. Accame and M. Zambarino (route no 7) and in 1992 by M. Scheffler and J. Freudenberger (route no 1).
Marco (Thomas) Tomassini re-bolted the pre-existing routes and put up all new routes at the end of 2004..
The bolting of the line "Bignamika" was one of Luca Lenti's ideas and he provided all materials for the bolting and additionally for the re-bolting of the route "Deimos".
All other used equipment was paid for by the author with the exception of the chains, which were provided by the Mountain Shop (Salewa).
Access:
From the motorway exit Feglino, drive up to the stop sign and turn right in direction of Finale Ligure and follow the road for about 1.7 km until you come to a turn-off on your right which leads to M. Cucco (signpost restaurant La Sosta).
Continue along this uphill road for about 2.1 km until you see on your right a concrete ramp, which leads to the parking lot of M. Cucco (opposite the restaurant Il Rifugio).
After about 200 m this ramp finishes and turns into a forest road, at this point you find on your right a sign showing the whole area of M. Cucco immediately after a footpath with wooden steps initiates. Cars can be parked anywhere within this free campground, continue on foot crossing some tent spaces while following the main path on the left.
Shortly afterwards you will find a junction on your left, either way is correct (cairn marked with MC2), 3 minutes from the parking lot.
From here the level path continues for another 2 minutes and brings you right below the face of Monte Cucco 2.
A short but steep earth ramp leads to the base of the cliff.
The approach takes about 5 minutes on foot.
Unfortunately the base of the cliff is not very comfortable.
Route no 2 lies a further 40 meters to the left of route no 3, route no 1 is situated even further to the left passing a stonewall, exactly 90 meters left of route no 3.
ATTENTION: The motorway access and exit Feglino is one directional, it is only accessible if you are coming from or going to Genoa, so if you are approaching Finale from Ventimiglia you have to use the exit Finale Ligure.
