arrampicare a finale ligure, scalare a finale ligure,marco tomassini, thomas, gola dei briganti

This north facing summer-autumn crag has 32 routes 10 to 22 meters long, with a range of grades from 5a to 8a+ (with further routes still to be climbed) and offers a variety of different climbing styles.

There are walls with pockets of various sizes, technical slabs, slabs, corners and overhangs.

This cliff initially only housed 5 routes, bolted in 1987 and the 90's by various climbers and equipped with a mix of now rather old material, recently 27 new routes have been added and the pre-existing routes have been re-bolted.

All routes are equipped with stainless steel resin bolts and the chains, never shared by different routes all have a fixed screw gate karabiner.

All chains and part of the resin were provided by Marco (Thomas) Tomassini with economical help of some local climbers the "finaleros".

The sector named "Il Grottino" lies slightly before the main sector along the path and is characterized by mainly slabby routes which almost all have a crux section in the last couple of meters. The main sector is subdivided into two further sections of which the first one is very overhanging and thus contains the most difficult routes of the entire crag which generally have a crux in the short roof section and turn into a stamina route with good holds further up. The second section on the other hand contains "short" vertical walls, generally technical and characterized by a bombardment of mono and two finger pockets... careful with the tendons!

All works of bolting and re-bolting were carried out by Marco (Thomas) Tomassini and Daniele (Jack) Canale in the period from July to November 2005.

Access:

From the motorway exit of Finale Ligure drive up to the stop sign and turn left towards Finale Ligure, Savona. Follow the road for 2.8 km until you reach another stop sign, here you turn left towards Genova, Varigotti. After 400 m you will come to a roundabout in front of the station of Finale Ligure (on your left) carry straight on (second exit). After 1.1 km you will come to a set of traffic lights where you turn left into Final Pia (signposted for Calvisio). Drive over the medieval bridge, which crosses the river, and turn left in direction of Calvisio, Vezzi Portio. After 5.5 km measured from the station of Finale in this direction you will find the Pizzeria Cornei on your left, here cars can be parked.

Just before the pizzeria you will see a sign marked with a rectangle and two full red dots (direction Ponte Cornei-Valle Cornei-S. Lorenzino), which leads the right way. Follow the signed path and after about two minutes you cross a dry river bed (gate with a sign private property on your right) and follow the path for another 2 minutes, two minutes further on you cross the river bed again and climb up the bank on your left following a metal wire and a fixed rope.

You continue to follow the main path which leads gently uphill, and you walk past a cemented uphill section and an open space on your right, after another couple of hundred meters you will reach a big painted boulder on your right, from here a clear and wide path leads steeply uphill directly after a short distance to the base of the first routes.

The approach by foot takes about 17 minutes.