arrampicare a finale ligure, scalare a finale ligure, marco tomassini, thomas, eco superiore

Eco Superiore is the upper part of a much bigger climbing area. It contains 9 routes of 10 meters lenght and has a range of grades from 6a to 7a. The climbing is on vertical walls with partly flat pockets of various sizes.

The crag faces west and climbing is best in winter or in the mid-seasons.

The sector was developed between 1988 and 1989 by various climbers and was re-bolted in the period of January 1995 by the U.I.S.P. Lega Montagna-Genova of which the most active climbers were Gino Pittaluga and Marco (Thomas) Tomassini.

All materials for the re-bolting of the 9 routes were provided by the above mentioned association.

Re-bolting of the sector inferiore was carried out by the very active ALA group of Sanremo which in the autumn period of 1998 not only re-bolted all existing routes but also added other 6 new routes.

Access:

Exit the motorway at Finale Ligure, drive up to the stop sign where you turn left towards Finale Ligure, Savona. Continue along this road for 2.8 km until you come to another stop sign at which you turn left towards Genova, Varigotti. After 400 m you will come to a roundabout in front of the station of Finale Ligure (on your left) carry straight on (second exit). After 1.1 km you will come to a set of traffic lights where you turn left into Final Pia (signposted for Calvisio). Drive over the medieval bridge, which crosses the river, and turn left in direction of Calvisio, Vezzi Portio. After 5.5 km measured from the station of Finale in this direction you will find the Pizzeria Cornei on your left, here cars can be parked.

Just before the pizzeria you will see a sign marked with a rectangle and two full red dots (direction Ponte Cornei-Valle Cornei-S. Lorenzino), which leads the right way. Follow the signed path and after about two minutes you will cross a dry river bed (gate with a sign private property on your right) and follow the path for another 2 minutes, after a further two minutes cross the river bed again and climb up the bank on your left following a metal wire and a fixed rope.

The track is very narrow and very steep, be careful not to slip particularly in case of rain, definitely a dangerous section! Continue for about 10 min always following the marking, on your right a path leads downhill and then uphill again for about 1 min to the base of the sector Inferiore of Eco. The crag is already visible from the last junction. Attention that you don't mix up the paths here, another junction shortly before also on your right leads continuously downhill and is marked with the green letter "C". This path leads to the climbing Camelot 1 and 2 (also from this junction crags can be seen).

Walk along the whole length of the cliff until the extreme left side where the cliff and the routes finish. At this point follow a steep narrow track taking a sharp right turn, following this you pass several rocky ramps and small trees until you come to the top where you follow an almost non-existing track on your right. Following this path you will arrive at the extreme left side of the cliff.

It is very easy to get lost in the last part of the track, always remember that the sector Eco Superiore lies immediately above the sector Eco Inferiore and that if you do get lost at the last junction and you go too far uphill you will arrive below the much bigger and obvious sector Avancorpo of Placconata Principale of Rian Cornei.

The approach takes about 25 minutes on foot.