arrampicare a finale ligure, scalare a finale ligure, marco tomassini, thomas, rocca di corno zona rossa

Definitely a winter climbing crag, which lies in the western part of Rocca di Corno. All 11 routes are situated in a huge red cave and most of the routes are overhanging and require power... but strong fingers and technique are also always requested.

The routes of varying length between 20 and 40 m have a range of grades from 6b to 7c+.

The route "Mug" shares the start with an older route called "Enfant Terrible" which has not been re-bolted, while the route "Rock stupid" (with two pitches) was completed re-bolted.

All the other routes are new and are definitely interesting.

Considering the orientation of the cliff, climbing is recommended in winter or in the afternoon because this sector is additionally very sheltered from the wind.

Not to be missed is the route "Rombo di Vento", wich is equipped with two chains to allow one 30 m and one 35 m abseil and can therefore be climbed with either a 60 m or a 70 m rope.

This sector was initially re-discovered by Mauro (Maurino) Carena, Elena Cattani e Bruno Magioncada, who then initiated the bolting of the exceptional route "Rombo di Vento" and continued to put up the routes Mug and Hambre.

The other routes were bolted shortly afterwards with different kinds of bolts and resin by Maurino, Elena Cattani, Bruno Magioncalda and Marco (Thomas) Tomassini.

The old routes date from years 1984 (Rock Stupid) and 1985 (Enfant Terrible) and were re-bolted by D. Frignone and D. Stefanelli.

All materials were paid for by the various climbers.

Bolting and re-bolting of the entire sector was carried out in the period between 2001-2002.

Access:

From the motorway exit at Finale Ligure drive up to the stop sign and turn left towards Finale Ligure, Savona. Follow the road for 2.8 km until you reach another stop sign, here turn left towards Genova, Varigotti. After 400 m you will come to a roundabout in front of the station of Finale Ligure (on your left) carry straight on (second exit). After 1.1 km you will come to a set of traffic lights , turn left into Final Pia (signposted for Calvisio). Drive over the medieval bridge, which crosses the river, and turn left towards Calvisio, Vezzi Portio.

Once passed the village Calvisio you will see a little further ahead on your right a small bridge (3.4 km from the station) from where you can already get a first glimpse of Rocca di Corno (on your right high up). Cross that bridge and follow the directions for Verzi, via Julia Augusta. Follow this tortuous road, which is winding and very steep for about 800 m until you reach a junction. Continue to follow what is the road on your left always towards Monte Corno, Via Julia Augusta.

Follow the now dirt road for another 600 m until you come to an obvious wider section which allows you to park the car on the left side of the road.

First follow the path down to the riverbed and then take the steep path uphill, which leads to the base of the cliff. Here the path splits into two.

Take the left hand path (marked with a red rhombus) which leads to the bottom of the obvious red cave, from here follow a small track on you right which takes you right to the base of the routes.

The approach takes about 25 minutes on foot.

ATTENTION! Don't leave any valuables in the car, unfortunately in this zone cars are frequently broken into!