Lacremā settore Basso
Foto di Guido Jafelice
This vast vertical not yet completely developed wall houses 17 routes of about 20 meter length and with a range of grades from 5c to 8a+ plus additional unclimbed projects.
The ideal climbing period is mid-seasons due to its east orientation. In summer climbing is unfortunately not recommended as quite a few holds are rather worn down and polished.
In the summer months the crag goes into shade after 3pm.
The sector was first bolted by various climbers during the years from 1986 to 1989 and was almost completely re-bolted between January and February 1995 by the U.I.S.P. Mountain Association of Genoa, which covered all cost of materials and of which Gino Pittaluga and Marco (Thomas) Tomassini were the most active developers.
The route "Spazzolami" (no 2) was re-bolted with resin bolts by Luca Lenti.
The routes number 1, 3 and 4 were re-bolted with resin bolts in September 2006 by Marco (Thomas) Tomassini and Daniele (Jack) Canale.
The variation on the right side of the route "Spazzolami" was rebolted with cemented bolts in October 2006 by Dimitri Frascio and Luca Lenti.
Access:
From the motorway exit of Finale Ligure drive up to the stop sign and turn left towards Finale Ligure, Savona. Follow the road for 2.8 km until you reach another stop sign, here you turn left towards Genova, Varigotti. After 400 m you will reach to a roundabout in front of the station of Finale Ligure (on your left) carry straight on (second exit). After 1.1 km you will come to a set of traffic lights where you turn left towards Final Pia (signposted for Calvisio). Drive over the little bridge, which crosses the river, and turn left towards Calvisio, Vezzi Portio. Follow the road in this direction for a total of 2.7 km measured from the station until you come to a small road on your left (Vico Bedina). Take this road and after about 100 m turn right and follow that road for about 600 m until you reach a small square with gravel in front of the church S. Cipriano (on your left). Attention that you take the right turn, the road is very narrow and the street name "Vico Bedina" is not visible!
From here follow the road marked with a "full red rhombus" on foot (Calvisio Vecchio-Casa del Vacchč-Ciappo dei Ceci-Lacremā) for about 5 minutes passing between various stone houses, following the pebbled path and passing underneath two stone arches.
You will come to a junction, take the left hand turn and pass a water basin situated underneath an overhanging small rock face. Follow the path for another 3 minutes until you scramble up a short stone wall with a fixed rope in the last meters and come out at the far right side of the crag at the base of the route "Fumo di Londra".
Attention at the last junction, if you accidentally turn left (path marked by the outline of a red square and a red full rhombus) you will come to the nearby crag "Casa del Vacchč".
The approach takes about 8 minutes on foot.
