Some of the best Crags of Finale Ligure
you can find them in my guide-book "Finale By Thomas"
CLICK ON THE PICTURE AND SEE THE ACCESS
AND THE LISTOF THE ROUTES
PLACCA PIOTTI
ANTRI ROSSI
PLACCA DEI
MALEDUCATI
CUCCO 2
BOCCA DI BACCO
GOLA DEI
BRIGANTI
ECO SUPERIORE
ZONA ROSSA
LACREMA'
A Boulder in Capo San Donato, high valutation 6b+
others crags, re-boltered by Fabio Pierpaoli with OUTDOOR LIGURIA...and by Giorgio Delfino...good climbing!!
FALESIA DEL GURU
Luca Fida, Giovanni Piaggio, Stefano Dondero, have re-bolted 9 already existing routes and bolted 9 new ones self-financing themselves and in partnership with Mountainshop SALEWA (Final Borgo) that gave them 50 stainless steel bolts.
Outdoor Liguria Association, leaded by Fabio "Bigo" Pierpaoli, and some friends from Quotazero.com forum, have financed and realized 4 new routes, close bolted and of moderate difficulty, and the re-styling of 2 old routes.
For the descent always use the upper maillon and the inferior bolt.
FALESIA DELLE TECCHIE
Once more thanks to the Smarro's team here we have 21 new routes on some nice rock pillars close to the well known Alveare in the Monte Sordo valley.
On these routes , 15 to 20 meters long, you'll have pleasant climb on good quality vertical rock with beautiful sequences on fingers, good bolts and shade till the end of the morning.
How to get there: as to reach Alveare cross the river (dry in the hot season) after Monte Sordo houses and turn right.
More or less 30 meters ahead and you turn uphill on the left.
In a few minutes you'll reach the cliff.
1. Gin - D 7a
2. Grembo girls 7a
3. Mel 6a
4. 1518: Banda Moretti 6b
5. Can du Leccia 6a
6. Blindosbarra 6a
7. Fischia il vento 6b+
8. Qualcosa c'è 7a+
9. Il Mullah O'Mauro 6c+
10. Avanti saraceno 6a
11. La porta della percezione 6b
12. A star in the night 6a
13. Non ci sono capi 5c/6a
14. Starway to heaven 5a
15. A Gianni 5c
16. L'allenatore nel pallone 5a
17. New economy 6a
18. Bomber for president 5a
19. Chato 6c+
20. Isallo city 6a+
21. Tutti al buio
Finale's Crags
Photographer Marco (Thomas) Tomassini
Photographer Daniele (Jack) Canale
FALESIA DEGLI AMICI
In pure Cornei style,here we have a new cliff in Ciappo delle Conche area called Amici (friends) cliff.
Those who realized it are a group of local climbers: Mauro Albiano, Luca Ferrero, Eugenio Ghirelli, Niccolò Morelli, Ivan Pesce and Diego Santini, the so-called Smarro's climbing group that worked during July 2001.
The routes, even if not that long ( 15 mtr max) are of various climbing style: slabs and overhangs, some of them with strength movements on fingers.
How to get there: once arrived at Ciappo delle Conche, keep on walking in Arma do Bo direction.
After 150 mtr turn left in the wood till you reach a ditch. Then turn on the right again and once more in the same direction and you'll reach the cliff.
In the sun in the morning.
Routes from number 3 to 9 in the shade in the afternoon.
1. La segretaria 5a
2. Mameli 5c
3. Barba e Lalla 6b+
4. Algoflash
5. Loano Mantova solo andata 6a
6. Culetto giramondo 5a
7. Tsango 6a+
8. Quaglia man 6b
9. Dead man walking 4a
FALESIA DELLA TRANQUILLITA'
Outdoor Liguria Association, leaded by Fabio "Bigo" Pierpaoli, and some friends from Quotazero.com forum financed and realized the re-styling of this small but interesting spot of wonderful grey limestone located in the Cornei valley.
9 routes have been re-bolted, a new on bolted and 3 more have been controlled for security check.
The difficulty is between 6a and 6b.
The area has been cleaned and the paths to join the close Guru, Camelot2 and Eco cliffs have been re-opened so that is easy to move around.
You now have the chance to climb in these 3 cliffs -(shade in the morning) and than moving to the close and overhanging white wall of the Gola dei Briganti (shade in the afternoon)- during the hottest season.
For the descent always use the upper maillon and the inferior bolt.
RIAN CORNEI PLACCONATA SETTORE SINISTRO
Outdoor Liguria Association financed and realized the re-bolting with stainless steel bolts of this cliff characterised by medium/ easy routes good for those who need a safe and quite easy climb.
The already existing routes now re-bolted are 11, 7 the new ones and another one has been partially checked.
The difficulty is in between 4c and 6c+.
Both the clean up and the paths to join the Placconata centrale and the Avancorpo are ok.
We need your help to realise some other project and you'll find out how on web site www.arrampicate.it.
FALESIA DEL CINGHIALE
Bolted by Delfino Giorgio in 2008
How to join the cliff: leave the car in Boragni parking area and follow the path that, passing under the other cliffs goes in Nava valley.
When the path smooth you'll see on your left a stone with a square hole.
Further on there's the path that takes to the Grotta dei pipistrelli (bats cave), downhill to the Volpe and Cinghiale cliffs.
Another way to reach it is to park close to the Rian Cornei Pizzeria and to follow the path that takes to the Tempio del Vento.
While climbing up using the fixed rope under the cliff turn on the right as the panels show.
FALESIA DEL SOLE
Bolted by Delfino Giorgio
How to get there: leave the car in Boragni parking area , take the dirt road and then the path that, passing under the cliffs, goes in Nava valley.
Keep on walking for 200 mt more (after Strapatente junction) and turn left.
From the parking area to the cliff it takes a 20 minutes walk.
FALESIA DELLA LUNA
How to get there: leave the car in the Boragni parking area and take the dirt road and the path that, passing under the cliffs, takes to Nava valley.
Once arrived at the junction that takes to the Sole cliff keep on walking 10 meters on the main path then turn left.
You'll find then some indication panels.
From the car to the cliff more or less 20 minutes walk.
FALESIA DELLA VOLPE
Bolted by Delfino Giorgio
How to get there: leave the car in the Boragni parking area.
Take the dirt road uphill and then the path that, passing under the other cliffs goes in Nava valley.
When the path smooth , follow the panels that will drive you in the wood downhill on your left till the cliff.
From the parking more or less 20 mins walk.
